We left Mayoka Village at about 6am to make our way north to Livingstonia. My stomach was on its head today and I was seriously feeling the effects of dehydration set in. We went to Mzuzu town on our first stop as we had to try and draw more cash. Just our luck that not ONE ATM was working! The thought of having to turn back crossed our minds and it just wasn’t an option we wanted to even think of. We waited until the banks all opened at 8 and asked if we could draw cash inside the bank but still no one could help us. Eventually we tried the same ATM again and it finally worked! Thank heavens!
We made our way to Livingstonia through many winding roads. When we got to the top of the one mountain and had the most incredible view of the northern side of the lake right over to the Tanzanian mountains! We took the dust road turnoff to Livingstonia and wound our way up 15km of the most nerve wracking single track road that I have ever been on! The cliffs next to the car were just sheer vertical drops. One wrong move and we would have be obliterated into smithereens!!! The view from the top was just absolutely astounding! We stayed at Lukwe Eco Camp which has views right over a big gorge next to the Machinga Waterfall and over the lake to the wild and seemingly untouched mountains of Tanzania. THE VIEW, OH MY GOD THE VIEW!!! It has got to have the second best view in the whole of Africa next to standing on top of Kilimanjaro! This is one place you don’t want to miss out on peeps. We had homemade fishcakes and fresh salad grown in their own gardens and then took a drive to Livingstonia and went to the old stone house museum and saw a big old mission church with a stained glass window with David Livingstone on it. It is also the base of the Livingstonia University which I’m sure is the most hidden and tucked away university in the world! If you want to make sure your kids don’t sneak out of uni at night to go partying, then this is the place to send them to LOL
From there we drove to the Machinga Falls and paid R15 each to go and have a look over the edge and were led by 4 little local boys who showed us the way. They nimbly hopped from rock to rock barefoot. We desperately tried to keep up with them as they took us on a trail along the side of the cliff which was as close an adrenalin rush as jumping off the Vic Falls Bridge. Again just one wrong step and that would have been the end of us. It just dropped down for hundreds of meters. We saw the cave behind the waterfall that the people used to hide in to escape being taken as slaves and then he took us for an incredibly steep ‘short cut’ where we had to grab onto tree roots to avoid falling back. My heart felt like it was going to just climb out my throat, and to top it off I really didn’t feel well either.
I couldn’t stomach much more than just a salad for dinner and had some lemongrass tea before collapsing into bed for the night…